波浪

Finally, this project setup a pile station near Taichung harbor. Monitoring and maintenance will continuously to be done to supply oceanographical data for further application.

本计画除上述时空域方向波谱的探讨外，同时并研究发展波浪量测技术，冀能观测得珍贵波浪资料予各界分析研究。

Surfing begins with the surfer eyeing a rideable wave on the horizon and then matching its speed (by paddling or sometimes, in huge waves, by tow-in).

刚开始冲浪时，冲浪者要在海平面上找到自己可以驾驭的波浪，然后跟上它的速度（冲浪者首先要驾着冲浪板在巨大的波浪中划行）。

And all this beheath a sky by nature skyless in which the sun sets without setting at all and hides without hiding behind an unminding cloud.

它的波浪也不感单一或个别这些波浪在既不小也不大的石头周围对自己那听若无闻的轻声细语轻声细语。

According to the difference of sediment transportation by the single wave or wave current and the unidirect flow, two key factors are mainly grasped to consider the influences of waves on the sediment.

根据波浪和波流联合输沙与单向水流输沙特性的不同，本文主要抓住了两个关键因素来考虑波浪对泥沙的作用，即改变底部摩阻和泥沙沉速。

Wave maker is the major equipment of wave simulating in the laboratory. Wave stimulating is very important to researches on ships, water conservancies, nautical construction, petroleum exploitation, etc.

波浪模拟对于船舶、水利、海上建筑、海上石油开采等诸多研究领域均具有重要的意义，造波机是实验室进行波浪模拟的主要设备。

The sytem of missile sealifts with wave compensation for navy ships connected parallely is firstly established in home. The wave compensation function in the process of missile supply is realizated without any modifications to the depot ship and incepts ship by using the missile supply system. The reliability and practicability are validated by operation test in simulate ship.

建成的舰艇并靠导弹补给及波浪补偿系统，无需对补给舰和被补给舰作任何改装，即可实现舰艇并靠导弹补给中的波浪补偿功能，并通过模拟平台试验验证了补给装置的可靠性和实用性。

Furthermore, the present model is employed to compute the wave field in the inner area of the deepwater channel jetties in the Yangtze River Estuary. Results demonstrate that the present model, which takes into account energy dissipation and the partial reflection of waves, can be used in the relatively large harbor basin, not only simple and convenient to conduct but also provides enough accuracy to satisfy the demand of engineering design.

同时从对长江口深水航道一期工程导堤内侧水域波浪场的计算结果看，本文的计算方法能够应用于较大范围的港内水域的波浪数值计算，并考虑了底摩阻耗散和边界不完全反射的影响，计算简便，精度满足工程应用要求。

In the open ocean, due to very long wavelengths, the wave height is small (only 1-2m), this wave is not rough, but the spread of to near coastal areas, due to the gradual shallowing water depth, seabed resistance is increased, wave deformation, wave height increases rapidly (up to 10 meters), will be the formation of waves rushed into the land.

在开阔的大洋中，由于波长很长，波高不大（仅1—2m），这种波浪并不汹涌，但传播到接近海岸地带，由于水深逐渐变浅，海底阻力加大，波浪变形，波高急剧增大（可达10余米），便形成巨浪冲向陆地。

In comparison with the drawbacks related to the Fourier Transform and Smoothed Instantaneous Wave Energy History(SIWEH, the Wavelet Transform will be show to be much better suited for analyzing wave shoaling In which signal is believed to be non-stationary and wide band.

在使用小波转换作为分析波浪工具之前，我们选择 Morlet wavelet、Paul wavelet与Gaussian三种型态之小波函数进行讨论，最终考虑视窗面积之大小、复数型态之小波函数及频率视窗的集中度，而以 Morlet wavelet较适合分析波浪。

First the relationship of shoaling coefficient and relative water depth in regular and irregular wave fields has been analyzed. The experimental result shows that shoaling wave height decreases at first then increases until wave breaking. The broken wave height of regular waves is smaller than irregular waves with same wave steepness and relative water depth.

本文首先就规则波及不规则波实验分析波浪的浅化系数与相对水深之关系，实验结果显示浅化波高有先减后增之趋势，在碎波前达到最大，碎波后之波高在相同水深与深海波浪尖锐度成反比，规则波碎波后波高较不规则波小。

What are your goals and strategies for growth?

你的成长目标和策略是什么？

And unto the angel of the church in Sardis write; These things saith he that hath the seven irits of God, and the seven star I know thy works, that thou hast a name that thou livest, and art dead.

3：1 你要写信给撒狄教会的使者，说，那有神的七灵和七星的，说，我知道你的行为，按名你是活的，其实是死的。